Preparing Your Bike For Overland Travel

Once you have bought your bike, the next stage is to prepare it for the trip you plan to undertake. The following guide will give you some ideas on the type of things you should consider when preparing your bike. What you end up doing, in the way of preparation, depends very much on where and how long you plan to travel. Remember though, you must give yourself plenty of time before your trip to prepare your bike properly and also to test it over as many different terrains as you can (motorways, lanes, muddy tracks, rocks hills, sand, water crossings etc) to be completely sure that your bike is ready.

Chassis
Wheels
Frame
Centre Stand
Mirrors
Seat
Side Stand
Lever Protectors
Fairing/Windshield
Tank
Tyres
Inner Tubes

Engine
Oil and oil filters
Oil Temperature gauges
Oil Cooler
Air Filter

Fuel
Filter
Pipes

Transmission
Clutch
Chain & Sprockets

Luggage System
Rack
Panniers
Boxes
Tank Bags
Rucksacks & Bum Bags
Extra fuel & Water


Chassis

Wheels
It is well worth the effort to improve the quality and robustness of your wheels. On fully loaded bikes when the roads get rough or if you decide to venture off-road, your wheels will take a pounding. Check the quality of your rims and the gauge of the spokes. If in doubt fit a better rim, like DID or Excel, and/or heavy duty spokes (for longevity, stainless steel are best). If you are riding a road bike with cast alloy wheels and you anticipate bad roads, consider replacing them with spoked wheels. They are easier to repair and, if laced with heavy-duty spokes and of a good quality, much more robust.
Wheel building is an art so unless you are very experienced, get the work done by a professional.
If you are planning to ride off-road, with under pressure tyres, you must fit some kind of tyre locking device. When riding on under pressure tyres there is the chance that the tyre will slip around the wheel rim, dragging the inner tube with it. The effect of this is to rip the valve from the inner tube and the first signs of 'tyre creep' can be seen as the valve starts to lean over. Locking devices are available that clamp the tyres bead to the wheel rim, however they can cause the wheel to go out of balance, particularly at high speeds on the road. An alternative method to avoid tyre creep is to drill four holes in the side of each rim (looking at the rim as a clock face, one hole at 12 o'clock on the front side, one hole at 3 o'clock on the rear side, one hole at six o'clock on the front side, and the last hole at nine o'clock on the rear side). Into each of these holes screw a self-tapping screw far enough to just bite into the tyres bead. This should be sufficient to stop the tyre slipping around the rim.

Frame
Depending on the type of bike that you intend to use, it may be worth strengthening the frame. Bikes most likely to require strengthening are ones that are not really designed to carry passengers and/or heavy loads. Areas that are most susceptible are the rear sub-frame (where the passenger sits to the back of the bike) and, on mono shock bikes, where the bottom of the rear shock attaches to the frame. The rear sub-frame on many bikes is often not up to the excessive amount of baggage that needs to be carried and the bad road condition often encountered when travelling overland. This can be overcome by either fitting frame stiffeners (Ricky produce good frame stiffeners), which are bars that attach from around the rear light to the footrests, or to weld extra metal to the point where the rear sub-fame meets the frame proper. Again, when loaded with baggage and on bad roads a lot of stress it transferred through the rear shock absorber and down into the frame. Welding extra metal to support it can strengthen the area where the rear shock absorber connects to the frame.

Centre Stand
If your bike is not fitted with a centre stand, which is the case with most trail and dual-purpose bikes, then it is worth considering the option of fitting one. It will certainly make your life much easier when it comes to jobs like fixing punctures, wheel bearings, lubricating your chain etc. There are several suppliers who make after-market centre stands, but shop around as the quality can vary considerably. If extra weight is a major consideration then a good alternative is to use lengths of sturdy aluminium tube. Cut them to size so that they fit under the swinging arm, when the rear wheel is off the ground, and in the cup at the bottom of a fork, when the front wheel is off the ground. Attach some kind of cushioning, like rubber or tape, to each end to protect your bike and to stop the tube slipping on the ground. To use them, push the front or rear wheel of your bike off the ground, against the side stand. Position one of the tubes under either the fork or the swinging arm on the opposite side to the side stand. Although not the most stable of solutions it should be good enough for the job.

Mirrors
Good mirror are worth their weight in gold! They will make riding so much easier in countries where riding is difficult enough in the first place. Fit them on both sides if you know you will be changing the side of the road that you ride on. If you are going off road for any length of time, consider removing them to avoid damage on the occasional spill.

Seat
If your seat is not designed for long hours of use either change it or add some extra padding. You will be glad that you did, as riding on too firm a saddle for extended periods of time can be a nightmare.

Side Stand
When you need to use your side stand anywhere the ground is not completely solid it has a tendency to let you down. The "foot" on the end of the stand is almost always to small and will eventually sink into the ground, allowing your bike to fall on its side. To remedy this, either take a sheet of aluminium, or something similar, to put under it, or attach the sheet to the bottom of the "foot". Attach it with a couple of small, countersunk head bolts, and make it sufficiently large to do the job.

Lever Protectors
These handy gadgets help to protect your bake and clutch levers from damage. They are most useful for off-road riding where falls are more common. A good alternative is to slightly loosen you levers so that upon impact they revolve around the handlebars rather than break. Another alternative is to carry lots of spare levers.

Fairing/Windshield
Consider fitting a fairing if you bike doesn´t have one. They will not only make riding less tiring but will help to improve fuel economy. If you only have a small "bikini" fairing, think about extending the windshield to give more protection from the wind. There are plenty of companies that produce after-market fairings and windshields.

Tank
A good size fuel tank is always useful and in some cases essential. If, for example, you are crossing large expanses of wilderness where fuel is unavailable or you are travelling in countries where there are fuel shortages, a large main tank is a real asset. You should aim for a capacity in the region of 20 to 40 litres (5 to 10 gallons). If the tank capacity of bike you have is not within this range then it is possible to either fit a larger aftermarket tank (Acerbis do a wide range of plastic tanks for trail and dual-purpose bikes) or to carry spare fuel cans. Another option is to get an aluminium tank custom built. The advantage with this is that you can make it as big as you want. However, you must make sure it is well made and supported as aluminium is not as strong as steel and can come a part when subjected to rough treatment.

Tyres
You must choose both the correct tyre to fit your bike and the right type tread for the terrain over which you will be riding. It´s all about finding the balance between outright road tyres, which give little grip on the dirt but last a long time on tarmac and deeply treaded “knobbly” tyres, which although give great grip in the dirt wear very quickly on tarmac.
If you are staying mostly on the road then any good, hardwearing tyre will do. Pirelli, Michelin, Avon, Bridgestone and Dunlop all produce a wide range of suitable tyres. Choose one with a fairly deep tread pattern.
If you are going to spend most of you time off-road then you should go for a deeply treaded “knobbly tyre”. Purely off-road tyres are fine if you do not plan to do much road riding (they wear very fast if used on tarmac and don´t offer much grip in the wet!), and there are plenty from which to choose. Choose a tread that suits the terrain you expect to be crossing i.e. muddy, sandy, rocky etc. A good compromise are Pirelli MT21´s, which are great off-road and will last quite a while if used on tarmac, Michelin “deserts” are even better off-road but wear more quickly if used on tarmac.
If you are panning on doing mostly road riding with some “not too serious” off-road riding, then a dual-purpose tyre is the best choice. Metzeler,s Sahara range or Pirelli MT60´s are a good examples of road orientated dual-purpose tyres.

Inner Tubes
Again if you are planning on doing a lot of hard off-road riding then it is worth fitting heavy-duty inner tubes. They will give you far greater puncture resistance and last much longer. Remember to take a couple of spares if you are going on a long trip, and take plenty of puncture repair patches, glue (some washing liquid is useful for helping tyres on and off) and quality mountain bike pump and tyre levers. Finally make sure you are comfortable with fixing punctures as they can happen quite regularly.


Engine

Oil and oil filters
Always do an oil and oil filter change just before you start your journey and when doing oil changes en route use the best oil that you can find. It is very important to do regular oil and oil filter changes, as the quality of oil in many developing countries is far from good. Take plenty of spare oil filters and enough oil to use for topping-up and lubricating your chain. If you are travelling through particularly hot countries, consider using thicker oil (20/50 instead of 10/40), but be sure to warm your bike up well from cold. Also, avoid starting and stopping the engine constantly, especially after you bike has been working hard. It is better to leave it running if you are only stopping briefly. When you do stop your engine let it run for a few minutes after you have come to a halt, as this allows the oil temperature to stabilise.

Oil Temperature gauges
If your bike doesn´t have an oil temperature gauge then fitting one will make a handy addition that will help you keep an eye on the performance of your engine, especially in hard running conditions or in hot climates. Various different types of after-market oil temperature gauges are available, including ones that are incorporated into the cap of the oil tank and ones that have a sensor fitted directly into the engine i.e. into the filter housing.

Oil Cooler
Generally speaking if your bike doesn´t have an oil cooler fitted as standard it shouldn´t be necessary to fit one. Water cooled bikes certainly do not need them and you should only consider fitting one if you think you will be riding in very hot and/or demanding conditions. If you do fit one then there is probably a manufacturer around that produces a unit specifically for your bike. Alternatively, any unit from a reasonably sized bike or small car can be made to fit. If your bike is a dry sump model you can use existing oil hoses and simple mount the new oil cooler high and at the front of your bike. Mounting it high and at the front of your bike helps increase the airflow across the unit and thus improves its effectiveness. If you have fitted an oil cooler, consider removing it if you are using your bike in cold weather as you can easily damage your engine by running it under its ideal working temperature.

Air Filter
Regular maintenance of your bike´s air filter is vital for the longevity of your engine. In particularly windy or dusty conditions it may be necessary to clean your filter as often as every day. Clean your air filter by rinsing it in petrol until clean then allow to dry. Soak the air filter in engine oil then squeeze out excess oil before reinstalling it. To help improve the effectiveness of your air filter check that all the air hoses are properly connected and airtight. Lightly grease the inside of the air box as this will help catch more dust and extend the time between cleaning. The use of air filter skins can also help. These stocking-like socks (an old nylon stocking is a cheap alternative) fit over your air filter and act as a pre-filter. They can easily be removed and replaced when necessary.


Fuel

Filter
Most bikes come equipped with one or more standard plastic-gauze fuel filters. Although gauze filters work okay, a far better alternative is the inline paper element type fuel filters. These small filters are cheap, easy to install and are far more effective than gauze filters. They can be bought from any good auto-spares retailer.

Pipes
Check all your fuel pipes for cracks, splits, loose connections or any signs of perishing. If any need replacing consider using braided stainless steel, as these are much tougher and more fire-resistant. Take a few spare pipes as well, just in case of emergencies.


Transmission

Clutch
Generally speaking if you are in any doubt about the amount of wear on your clutch and you are going on a long trip, replace it before leave. With a heavily loaded bike, and especially if you are heading off-road, you will likely be working the clutch quite hard therefore if it is at all worn it will rapidly burn out under such stressful conditions.

Chain & Sprockets
One very worthwhile addition to your bike (assuming it´s not shaft-driven!) is a quality o-ring chain and sprocket set. This type of chain has grease sealed between the rollers and pins of each link and are as such self lubricating. All that is needed is regular oiling of the external roller surfaces with light engine oil. Regina or DID are as good as they get and, when matched with a set of quality hardened steel sprockets, should last for at least 10,000 miles (16,000 kms). DID´s x-ring chain is guaranteed to last for at least 12,000 miles (19,000 kms). Don´t be tempted to buy cheap alloy sprockets or chains with obscure brand names as you can bet they will not last as long as a quality set, and when worked hark may not last very long at all.


Luggage System

Regardless of the luggage system you use there are certain considerations that you should be aware of when loading your bike. The most important is the distribution of weight. Heavy weights should be carried as low down and as close to the centre of the bike as possible. By doing this you will minimise the unavoidable change in handling characteristics that come about when you heavily load a bike. If you have to carry heavy gear on the passenger seat or carrier, consider strengthening the rear sub-frame, as this can be a weak area on some bikes. If you are using a rack to carry panniers or boxes, this will tend to strengthen the rear sub-frame anyway. It is also very important that you test your luggage system on the types of terrain that you expect to encounter on the trip you have planned. By doing this you will be able to correct design faults or inadequacies before your departure rather than have to go through the problems of having major work done on the road.

Rack
Even if you choose to use soft panniers to carry your luggage, it is still advisable to construct a rack. Not only will this secure your luggage more firmly to your bike but it will also help to strengthen the rear sub-frame and avoid any potential damage to your bike caused by the added weight. A simple rack can easily be made from box-section steel. Ideal attaching points for the rack would be around the passenger's footrest and behind the seat where the rear rack attaches to the frame, or where the rear indicators attach to the frame. You should also join both the racks together with a bar behind the rear wheel. This will help to reduce any inward flexing of the racks. Make sure this bar is removable so that you can get at the rear wheel to mend punctures etc. Depending on what you are attaching to the frame, it can be as simple or as complicated as you like. However, as a rule of thumb, it is better to stay as simple as you can to avoid unnecessary weight at the rear of your bike. Also try to use the lightest box-section steel that you think you need for the luggage that you are carrying. If you are attaching aluminium boxes to your bike and you are not short of money then it is possible to buy prefabricated racks along with the boxes to fit them. German suppliers Bernd Tesch and Touratech make excellent racks and aluminium boxes for most bikes.

Panniers
If you are planning a short trip that doesn't involve a lot of time in cities or populated areas, where the chances of theft are higher, then panniers are a good choice for your luggage system. They are light, cheap to make or buy, require little or no rack building, and can be easily repaired if damaged. On the bad side they are less secure, less robust, and less weatherproof. There are many different designs of panniers on the market made from various different materials (canvas, cordura, leather etc). Your choice should ultimately be governed by your needs and the shape of your bike. Whether you make your own or buy ready made ones it is very important to fix your panniers securely to the bike to avoid both forward and backward movement and up and down movement, both of which will be greatly exaggerated the rougher the terrain gets. The use of a rack can greatly help to secure your panniers as well as stiffening the sub-frame at the same time. Also be sure to fully protect your panniers from your exhaust, especially with trail bikes where the silencer comes up near the rear seat, just where your panniers will sit.

Boxes
If you are planning a long trip and have the time and money then lockable aluminium boxes are the best option to go for. They provide safe and secure storage for your gear, are robust in event of an accident, give good carrying capacity, and can be easily deigned for quick removal. On the bad side they are expensive to buy or make, require a strongly built rack, and add a lot of weight to you bike. It is not advisable to use a top box as this puts weight too high up and too far back thus adding to stress on the rear sub-frame and adversely effecting the handling characteristics of the bike. Other smaller boxes can be attached to various places on your bike for carrying spares or tools. Beneath the front lights or on the front of the bash plate, are good mounting points. If you plan on doing a lot of off-road riding make sure to attach your boxes securely as they can take quite a pounding on rough terrain. Padding between the boxes and the rack will help reduce rattles caused by vibrations. As mentioned above Bernd Tesch and Touratech are good suppliers of racks and aluminium boxes.

Tank Bags
These interesting bags are designed to sit on top of your tank and range in size from small enough to carry a map to large enough to stop you seeing where you are going! They are usually strapped to the tank or in some cases attached using magnets. If you are staying mostly on roads then these bags are fine and provide easy access to gear you use regularly during the day. If on the other hand, you are planning to spend more time off-road then avoid tank bags as they tend to be inadequately secured and often don't work well with the odd shaped tanks on many trail bikes.

Rucksacks & Bum Bags
If you are going to spend more time off-road then a light rucksack or a bum bag is a good option. If you use a rucksack, keep it light, as riding long and rough roads with a heavy rucksack will put unnecessary stress on your back and shoulder muscles. A better option would be a good sized bum bag. These come in various designs and sizes, some specially made for motorcyclists (Acerbis make excellent ones) and are great for storing tools and personal gear that needs to be to hand quickly.

Extra fuel & Water
If you are going to be travelling over long stretches of wilderness or where fuel is difficult to find then you may need to carry extra fuel. First try to increase the size of your main tank as mentioned above. If you have done this already and feel that you need to carry more fuel then there are several ways to do this. You can simply attach one or more fuel containers to the back of your bike. Jerry cans are best as they are relatively cheap and very robust. The best place to carry extra fuel cans is as close to your main tank as possible and away from the rear of your bike (heavy weight too far back will affect the handling of the bike and stress the rear sub-frame). However this is not always possible and more often than not spare fuel is attached to the area around the passengers seat. A good way to carry extra fuel near your tank is to construct a rack around it that holds two, smaller 10 lire jerry cans, one on each side of the tank. For some bikes it is possible to buy an after-market second tank. They usually fit down the side of the bike, just below the seat, and are connected into the main fuel system.

Water can be carried in any type of container and how much you carry depends on where you are travelling. Black plastic jerry cans are ideal if you need to carry a lot of water. Collapsible water bags are a good idea if you don´t need to carry too much. The same rules apply to the positioning of water as do to fuel.